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Welcome to LA Stories, a section where I interview people from all walks of life who have made LA their home.
Although I grew up in Madrid, Dominican culture has always been present in my household (thanks to my mom) through food, music, and traditions, including our visits to Dominican-owned hair salons in Madrid.
After moving to LA, I was a little disappointed by the lack of Dominican food. Sure, there are a few Cuban restaurants that satisfy my cravings for rice and beans. But what about a hearty Dominican breakfast with ham, rice, fried eggs, and plantains? Dominican kipe is a deep-fried bulgur roll that’s a staple of Dominican cuisine. Whenever my mom made them, I went crazy for them. She either made them herself or bought them from the owner of a Dominican hair salon.
I’ve been on the hunt for a Dominican restaurant since moving here. At the time, the only Dominican restaurant in Southern California I knew of was Tropical Sabor y Bar in San Diego. I discovered it during the COVID-19 pandemic. Sadly, the restaurant didn’t survive the pandemic and eventually closed permanently.
Last month, while casually scrolling through Instagram Stories, I discovered El Coro Cafe, founded by Dominican-born, Bronx-raised Adderlin, aka “El Chicho.” He did his first pop-up at the Multi Market and sold out in less than two hours.
Not only is El Coro the first Dominican pop-up in LA, but it’s also the first Dominican food-related business ever in Los Angeles. In a city like Los Angeles, where you can find food from nearly every corner of the world, it’s a huge deal to finally see Dominican representation in the local food scene.
As soon as I discovered El Coro, I told my mom about all the dishes featured on Adderlin’s Instagram feed. I hadn’t tried all of them, but some of the dishes, like pernil, brought back childhood memories for my mom.
I immediately DMed Adderlin to see if he wanted to be featured in LA Stories. He agreed, and to my surprise, he mentioned that he had come across my blog before! This interview was done before I went to Adderlin’s pop-up in mid-June.
From his favorite places in LA to his goals for El Coro, I hope you enjoy this interview!
Where are you from? When and why did you move to LA?
Originally, I was born in the Dominican Republic and raised in the Bronx, NY. After a few visits, I was fascinated and wanted to experience a change in life. As a DACA recipient, moving to LA in 2019 opened up many doors that I didn’t think were possible for someone of my background and position.
There are a few Cuban and Puerto Rican restaurants in LA, but not Dominican. Why do you think that is?
I think it has to do with the fact that there’s a very small Dominican community in LA. Most Dominicans who migrate from the island stick together with family who are mostly rooted on the East Coast. Some don’t believe it’s a possibility, but it’s up to the new generations to pave the way.
What are some of your favorite memories of growing up in a Dominican household?
Wow, you took me back there, I can name so many! Like getting super dressed up to meet everyone in the living room for the holidays. The fact that there’s always something to eat in the fridge. I remember the cousins coming over and the parties would last until 6am. And the slamming of dominoes on a table, I thought those games were so serious because they always had pen and paper to keep track while everyone was yelling.
What do you like the most about Dominican culture?
I really like the family traditions, the food of course, there’s so much Dominican food that doesn’t get highlighted anywhere else. The different kinds of music and dance styles. The fashion and energy when we see other Dominicans.
What do you love most about Dominican culture?
El Coro means the hangout. Anytime I was invited to a coro or a hangout, I knew it was always going to be a good vibe and most times good food, good music and drinks. I want to bring awareness and introduce that culture to LA. Everybody is welcome to El Coro.
As a Dominican-American, how does it make you feel that El Coro Cafe has been so well received by Angelenos?
To be honest, I did not expect so much love and support from my peers. It excites me to know that so many people also love Dominican food and culture. I never imagined that being my authentic self could create more possibilities for my future and for what’s next.
How did you learn to cook?
I learned a lot of the basics from my mom. It started with me going to the grocery store, then adding seasoning and eventually, I cooked the whole meal. Once I started working in restaurants around the city, I learned professionally about food safety and procedures to set myself up for success.
What’s your all-time favorite Dominican dish?
My all-time favorite I would say is the classic rice and beans with chicharrón de pollo (fried chicken chunks) with a green salad and sweet plantain. It’s a full meal to shock the palate.
Another one of my favorite Dominican dishes is Locrio de salami, which is rice cooked in a salami stew with a side of plátanos maduros and avocado. I don’t usually drink soda but I would have to go for a raspberry Country Club.
What dishes can people expect at your pop-ups? For those who have never tried Dominican food, could you describe some of them?
My signature dish is the “Dominicano Combo”, which comes with slow-roasted pernil (pork shoulder), topped with chimichurri sauce, served with a side of Dominican rice and beans, sweet plantains, and a garnish of our fresh cabbage salad. We also have a charred vegan eggplant stew that can be added to your pernil. We always recommend a refreshing coconut water or chinola juice (passion fruit).
Photo credit: lG @ElCoroCafe
Update (June 2022): I finally had the chance to try Adderlin’s food at his second pop-up, held at Child’s Pose Yoga Studio on La Cienega Boulevard. It was so nice to finally meet him! I ordered the Dominicano Combo, and Adderlin was kind enough to add a little charred eggplant stew on top.
It was a feast for my palate: the sweetness of the plátano maduro, the subtle bitterness of the eggplant, the tenderness of the perfectly cooked pernil, the freshness of the green salad, and the complex flavors of the sauces. All in all, it was a memorable dining experience.
Dominican food can sometimes be on the oily side, but that wasn’t the case here. All the ingredients complemented one another perfectly.The rice was also excellent, providing the perfect base for the other ingredients, especially the eggplant and pernil!
I finished my meal with some refreshing Vita Coco coconut water, which Adderlin highly recommended as the perfect pairing for the dish. You should definitely try it! Not only was it incredibly refreshing, but it also served as a great palate cleanser.
Afterward, I complimented him on how delicious everything was. He shared a few of his cooking secrets with me. The most impressive was that he cooked the eggplant over a wood-burning stove, a traditional cooking method known in the Dominican Republic as al fogón, which explained its rich flavor.
Adderlin also mentioned that the menu might change slightly at future pop-ups. As his business grows, he hopes to introduce coffee and Dominican juices.
What do you hope to accomplish with El Coro Cafe?
One day, I hope to own a space or a cafe where I can cultivate and educate about Dominican culture, where people can feel like they’re part of the coro (the hangout), the family, and build a community. Our goal is to spread good vibes and build a supportive BIPOC community. Good music, good food, good people and of course I’d hope to inspire anyone who follows my journey.
What do you like about living in LA compared to New York?
One of the first things I noticed is the change in weather. California is definitely a sunny state and that is one of my highlights of LA. LA feels a little isolated and it’s been difficult to find a community, while in NY, which I consider “home”, I have my family and friends that I feel rooted in.
Is there anything you miss about NY?
I come from the Bronx, NY, where Dominicans are a huge part of the community. There’s a bodega on every corner that sells Dominican food and sandwiches, a coro at the end of the block. Man! In LA, from the food to the people, it’s just different.
What are your favorite restaurants and coffee shops in LA?
In the 3 years that I’ve been here, I spent two on lockdown due to COVID. In the short time I’ve had to explore, I became a huge fan of Porto’s Bakery. They’re Cuban-owned, and the food and the coffee, as well as the pastries there feel like home. Another favorite of mine is a Korean BBQ restaurant called Hae Jang Chon, perfect for groups. There’s always a wait but in the end it’s worth it.
What are your favorite places in LA?
My list of favorite places in LA grows daily. I like to visit the Markets to explore other small businesses. I’m intrigued by Griffith Park and the famous Hollywood sign. The Broad, Santa Monica Pier and the Venice Beach walk that connects both beaches. San Diego is not in LA, but is my favorite place to visit when I need a getaway.
What’s an ideal day in LA for you?
An ideal day in LA looks like waking up at 6am, going to the gym, and walking my dog Gizmo. When I’m not doing pop-ups, I like to visit Smorgasburg, which is one of the biggest foodie markets in DTLA. I love finding inspiration in the world.
For pop-up days, it’s waking up at 4am to cook my rice and turn off my 6-hour roast pernil, arriving on site, connecting with my team, networking with other businesses, and really putting my 110% out there to provide the best customer service and food. I love connecting with people and educating them about my culture.
Where can people find out about your next pop-ups?
You can find them on my Instagram bio @ElCoroCafe, where we update our next pop-ups.
The next ones coming up are June 11th at Child’s Pose Studio and June 18th at Leimert Park for the Juneteenth festival.
Do you have any restaurant recommendations in New York?
Yes! I miss the food in NY so much. A few places I recommend visiting are LateMunch for the best comfort food in the Bronx, which is also a small business I helped my cousin build. Mission Ceviche for a very nice date. They are a Michelin-starred Peruvian restaurant. And of course, the pizza stores that can be found on any given corner. Not to mention the Dominican food. You can’t go wrong choosing any one that pops up on Yelp!
IG @ElCoroCafe
Adderlin’s personal IG @ChichoIAm
