By 
A year ago, the Eaton fire ravaged the community of Altadena. Multigenerational family homes, significant architectural buildings and lifelong mom-and-pop businesses were reduced to ashes. The eerie sky, shrouded in smoke, was grief-stricken — uncertainty permeated the air. In the blink of an eye, people’s lives were completely upended – and Tyler’s was one of them.
In 2018, Tyler Wells and his then-wife Ashley co-founded what has arguably been the most popular restaurant in Los Feliz: All Time. Years after preparing for their new project, the couple opened Bernee in Altadena with an effusive welcome in December 2024.
Thirty three days later, the Eaton fire wreaked havoc. Tyler lost his new house and his marriage – but miraculously, the restaurant survived.
Looking for a new start, Tyler moved to San Juan Capistrano and worked at The Ecology Center, a 28-acre regenerative farm focused on farm-to-table experiences. During this time, Tyler worked as the Culinary Director and worked with farmers while living in a tent inside the property.
At one point, Tyler thought of never coming back to LA; however, in August 2025, he returned to Altadena and reopened Bernee as Betsy, honoring his late mother. Just like Bernee, Paul Downer (also former chef of All Time) is the head chef at Betsy, working at the hearth every night — running orders and developing relationships with farmers.
The reopening of Betsy was a total success. Not only was it warmly embraced by the community, but it also garnered a heap of media attention.
I went there on December 26, a very chilly and drizzling day. Since I got there early, I went for a walk nearby. Signs of empowerment for the community of Altadena were plastered across different businesses on Lake Avenue. Concrete stairs that once led to the entrance of houses now lead to completely empty vacant lots. The Aldi I used to go to sometimes when I was in this part of town was also gone. It was a sad sight, and standing there, I couldn’t help but feel discouraged by the loss.
When I walked back to the restaurant, there were already three people waiting outside. By 5 pm, a line of at least 10 people had formed behind me. Walk-ins are welcome but people with reservations will be seated first.
Although the restaurant features wood-panelled walls and warm lighting, the eye instantly gravitates to the glowing hearth. They sat me right in the middle of the bar, where I got a perfect front-row seat to the hearth and was privy to the well-oiled machine that is Betsy — including Chef Paul interacting with the cooks and manning the fire.
When I entered the restaurant, I was shivering from the cold, but as soon as I sat down, the fire instantly warmed me. There’s a strange dichotomy in how the very thing that decimated the neighborhood is the driving force behind the restaurant. In the open kitchen, the cooks harmonize with the fire, tossing logs, unfazed by the flying embers, rotating the cast iron pans and using tongs to flip meats and vegetables.
Here’s what I ordered:
Ricotta gnocchi
Delicately tender and lightly charred pieces of gnocchi coated with butter and a lemony pepper dressing — finished with a generous amount of shredded parmesan cheese. I couldn’t think of a better way to start my meal. The cloud-like texture of the gnocchi, the zesty dressing, and the nuttiness of the cheese were so well-balanced. Since I wanted to make room for the rest, I took the leftovers to go.
I was seated right next to the area where the servers got the orders, including Tyler. “That is my absolute favorite. We always have it on the menu,” said Tyler as he marked off a ticket with a Sharpie.
Chicken
After having eaten so much meat on Christmas day, I decided to order the chicken instead of Betsy’s signature Wanderer New York steak with Hotel butter. However, I regretted my decision as soon as I saw the mouthwatering pieces of steak being placed on the tiered grill. The two diners sitting next to me, who were also solo, ordered it, and I couldn’t resist staring at those glossy cuts!
Nonetheless, this fire-cooked chicken was another standout. I felt so good after eating it! Every bite was bursting with juiciness, the chicken’s smoky, crispy skin complemented by thinly sliced caramelized onions that added a pleasantly sweet and slightly tart layer. The chicken sits on a bed of wilted greens and a pool of jus. I could have forgone the greens, as it distracted from the chicken—the main star—and maybe ordered a side of their famous roasted potatoes.
Note: The chicken was a seasonal item and it’s not on their menu anymore.
Wood oven cheesecake
This past summer, I went to the homeland of Basque cheesecake in San Sebastian, Spain, where I made sure to eat one cheesecake a day. Betsy’s cheesecake instantly transported me to that week-long summer trip. Could this possibly be the best Basque cheesecake in LA? It was so good I almost took another one to go. The curd was a sumptuous delight: rich and creamy with just the right amount of acidity – enhanced by the smooth, smoky exterior. Boy did I enjoy this. You can’t miss it!
“I’m proud of you, that was such a nice dinner,” said Tyler as I stood up to leave. Other dishes at Betsy that are worthy of a mention are the heritage pork chop with autumn squashes and kale, the cloverleaf roll with cultured Normandy butter nestled into the ridges, and the bowl-plated Caesar salad topped with anchovies and piled-high Parmesan cheese. It was hard not to admire the parade of swoon-worthy, flame-kissed dishes that Chef Paul placed on the counter.
You would think that on such a cold day, no one would dare to sit outside. But under the string of lights and patio heaters, all the outdoor seats were filled with bundled-up diners enjoying Betsy’s delicious food.
The gnocchi and half the chicken held up extremely well the next day. I wouldn’t have minded eating mushy gnocchi, but even after reheating Betsy’s gnocchi in the microwave, they surprisingly held the same texture as the day before!
The cozy atmosphere, the warmth from the fire, the elevated farm-to-table experience and the kindness from Tyler and his staff made dining at Betsy feel like a warm hug. However, another important reason as to why Betsy was my favorite LA meal of 2025 was its resilience. Despite the loss, there’s something beautiful about starting fresh with a new perspective, and Betsy is a prime example of that. Tyler could have easily thrown in the towel and never reopened, yet he returned to the very place where he had lost his zeal for life and defied the odds. This restaurant is his love letter to Altadena.
Hours: Monday – Sunday 5pm – 10 pm
To make your reservation, click here. If you’re going by yourself, I highly encourage you to email them instead.
