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A new addition to my travel blog section! In this post I’m going to talk about Big Sur, including the historic landmark Hearst Castle.
Big Sur is a stretch off the Pacific Coast Highway (Highway 1) that runs alongside the California coastline. From the beautiful winding roads, to the majestic rolling green hills and the beautiful whitecap waves crashing on the rocks, it feels like you’re in a time machine. Hipsters, artists and writers from all over the country have flocked Big Sur to unwind and soak in the “California Dreaming” mind state of this place. There’s no wonder why this place is so popular. The quietness, the remote location and the lack of development are all part of the allure. (There’s no phone service. Oh, the horror!…. just kidding). On our drive, we came across a hipster couple hitchhiking to Oregon. Also, the number of camped RVs and log cabins I encountered while driving, made me feel like I traveled to 1986. Indeed, Big Sur has been the epitome of bohemianism for decades. Not just hippies, but wealthy people also seek out Big Sur because it’s very secluded. What a perfect place to hide out from the world!
To encapsulate this remote hipster heaven, there’s the famous retreat center Esalen Insitute, which provides workshops about humanistic psychology and spirituality aimed for personal development. The institute also serves as a mineral hot springs and provides outdoor hot tubs on the ocean cliffs and massage treatment services. It goes without saying that all of this comes with breathtaking views and a beautiful landscape. Over the years, Esalen Insitute has formed a tight-knit and equitable community thanks to its core and values. I didn’t go there, but after reading about it and seeing the beautiful grounds, I felt like it was worth a mention.
I had already been to Big Sur before… back in 1993 lol way back. My father recalled some memories, although most of them were very foggy. We stayed in Carmel and drove all the way down PCH through Big Sur before making our way to Hearst Castle.
Note: Just an hour before this post was uploaded, my father, who’s a crazy hoarder of photos and video footage of our family, sent me pictures of one-year-old me and my mom in all the places I’m going to mention! How crazy it is that after living in Spain I would be back driving around to all those places with my dad? Or that I would be living in California? The universe works in such mysterious ways!
Here was our itinerary:
Carmel
We stayed at the Carmel Garden Inn. This town is located in Monterey County. The pictures on Google completely sold me. The town is so quaint and charming filled with beautiful art galleries, cozy patios and charming restaurants with inviting and romantic ambiance. The main street where all the fun happens is called Ocean Avenue. We had a delightful time strolling around window-shopping. It is also walk-friendly so you’re not tethered to your car all the time.
Carmel Mission Basilica
3080 Rio Rd, Carmel-By-The-Sea, CA 93923
This historical landmark is gorgeous. It’s the second oldest mission with San Diego being the first one. The courtyard, the plaza and the lush foliage brimming with flowers make this place like no other. We came here right after we checked in at the hotel. It was pouring rain, which made the place even more idyllic. The history is so interesting too. If you live in California and have been to either the Santa Barbara or San Diego missions, this place is a must-see on your visit.
Big Sur
Must-have songs on your playlist:
-“California Dreamin’”- Mamas and The Papas
-“The Sound of Silence”- Simon & Garfunkel
As I mentioned above, Big Sur is a long stretch of windy roads that take you alongside the Pacific coastline. The main sightseeing attraction is the McWay Falls. From Carmel it was exactly one hour and 12 minutes. It was very challenging trying not to stop at every single lookout vista spot on our way there. Enhanced by the bright blue sky, the views of all the coastal bluffs that extended along the coastline just took our breath away. We were so lucky the forecast worked in our favor to further appreciate this treasure!
Very Important Tip: Before you leave, plan ahead and write down the directions of where you’re going. There is zero phone reception, which made it challenging but also fun to get an old-school feel of what it was like to ask for directions before Smartphones revolutionized the way we use GPS.
Depending on what stretch of PCH you are on, pay attention and research your route to avoid road closures that could send you back where you came from! In this winter season, there were many signs announcing closures due to weather conditions and mudslides. I can’t imagine driving for so many hours on this road only to have to make a U-turn!
McWay Falls
After seeing pictures of this amazing waterfalls countless times on Tumblr and Instagram, it felt surreal to see it in person. However, the winter season and other factors didn’t let us appreciate the falls with the calm turquoise water á la Instagram.
Bixby Bridge
One of the most famous landmarks of Big Sur alongside McWay Falls. A must if you ever go to Big Sur although you’re bound to run into it. I was so taken aback by how well this bridge has remained perched over the hills since it was built in 1932: a truly majestic unique piece of art are the best words to describe it! Go early to avoid crowds!
My mom and I at the Brixby bridge in 1993!
Pfeiffer State Beach
Beautiful purple sand beach! Thank God we asked for directions on our way here cause it’s definitely tricky to get to. This beach is so romantic, I felt like I was in Grease or an 80’s romantic movie. With the tree-filled woods and the mini lake, the short path from the parking lot to the beach makes it a worthwhile walk. Take a stroll and look at the big rock with the little hole where you can witness first-hand the tremendous force of the waves crashing through it. The only con is that it was wayy too windy!
Nepenthe Restaurant
Food with a view! This landmark restaurant opened 60 years ago. The terrace area can be seen in the 1965 movie The Sandpiper with Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. I’m going to be honest here, the food here, as I guess most places in Big Sur, was basic and overpriced but the view man, that view! The wood and glass mid-century restaurant sits on a cliff overlooking the beautiful coastline of the Pacific Ocean. This famous landmark used to be an exclusive log cabin back in the day.
The 17-mile drive
Scenic drive in a loop that borders Monterey, Pacific Grove and Carmel in the Monterey Peninsula. The beautiful golf courses and stunning waterfront houses reminded me of Palos Verdes. Since you’re entering a residential area where you could easily get lost, there are red signs marked on the road to not get lost and you will also be required to pay a $10 fee at the entrance. You will know who’s a resident or a country club member because cars have a red and blue sticker on the grille.
Although there are many lookout points along this drive, a walk on Pebble Beach and Long Cypress can’t be missed.
Monterey
Cannery Row
765 Wave StMonterey, CA 93940
Boulevard that boasts all kinds of restaurants, hotels and attractions like the Aquarium and arcades. We went to Mirror Maze. The maze was super fun but super short. Watch out for the mannequins; they gave me a pretty good scare. The establishment also offers a laser maze.
Fisherman’s Wharf
60 Fishermans Wharf #1, Monterey, CA 93940
Clam chowder everywhere! I loved strolling down the dock and seeing the different eateries and ocean activity businesses including this beautiful candy shop.
Places to Eat
As much as we loved our stay at the Carmel Garden Inn, their included breakfast was nothing to rave about. Sadly, Carmel and Big Sur have very limited food options, most of them being overpriced. On the bright side,I still managed to find some good restaurants worth the money thanks to my extensive research skills.
La Bycyclette
29 Dolores St, Carmel-By-The-Sea, CA 93923
A must if you’re in Carmel! Yes, it is a little overpriced, but worth every cent and well-known among the locals. Curtis, the concierge, said he loved the food there and that it was at the top of his favorite places. Rightfully so, the brick-oven pizzas are extraordinarily good. They have just the right amount of crust. Not too thick, not too thin. Their desserts are also really good. I wish I could have eaten breakfast there. The lattes and omelets looked so appetizing in pictures. Next time!
The only con is that at La Bycyclette, the menu is specified so depending on the hour, they might not have certain items like pasta, which I was desperately craving! I had hardly eaten anything that day, and by the time we got to Carmel, I was completely famished. However, everything happens for a reason, otherwise I would have never tried out their exquisite pizzas.
Little Napoli
Dolores St, Carmel-By-The-Sea, CA 93923
We came here on our second dinner day. The food was good and the server was very resourceful in helping us pick the best menu items. If you’re craving some good Italian food, you can’t go wrong with either one of these restaurants. They sat us right by the fireplace!
Alliotti’s Victory Corner Restaurant
541 Lighthouse AvePacific Grove, CA 93950
Great place to grab lunch or breakfast in Pacific Grove! The restaurant is Italian family-owned. The meals are hearty and served in large portions and it’s located in a Victorian house, which is the signature architectural style in the area. If you drive around Pacific Grove, you’ll inevitably come across beautifully painted Victorian houses.
The Tree House Café
San Carlos St, Carmel-By-The-Sea, CA 93921
Quaint restaurant with a cozy outdoor patio. The service was amazing and the ambiance was very intimate with Spanish music playing in the background. My dad’s chardonnay was top-notch. The menu is very varied, so many options ,whatever your food of choice is, you can’t go wrong. From their homemade pastas and kebabs to their curries, this place can’t fall off your radar if you ever find yourself there. Don’t forget to top off your experience with one of their amazing cakes for dessert!
The Carmel Coffee House
Ocean Ave. between San Carlos & Dolores Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA 93923
Modern little café tucked away in a little alley. Perfect spot to grab a casual bite. The tuna sandwich was so good! The servers were super accommodating and welcomed us with the warmest of smiles. They have a wide selection of beverages, food and pastries. Their coffee beans are roasted in-house, so that’s a plus too. There’s also a nice courtyard with fireplaces and comfy seats to fully enjoy your latte. We liked it so much we came back on the next day for breakfast before we made our way to Hearst Castle in San Simeon.
To read the second part of my trip click here. Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and check out the highlight stories of my trip for more photos!
