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According to the US Census Bureau, there are approximately 96,000 Ethiopians living in Los Angeles. Although the Ethiopian community is also prevalent in other states, Washington D.C boasts the largest Ethiopian diaspora in the United States with a population of approximately 250,000.
In 2002, Little Ethiopia was officially recognized by the City of Los Angeles on Fairfax Avenue. If it’s your first time exploring this stretch of Fairfax, you’ll come across a myriad of Ethiopian restaurants that have been around for over 20 years, but there is one that is a perennial LA favorite: Meals by Genet.
Opened in 2001 by Chef Genet Agonafer, Meals by Genet is the most celebrated Ethiopian restaurant in Los Angeles.
Meals by Genet was highly praised by the late Jonathan Gold, Pulitzer Prize-winner and LA Times restaurant critic. In 2022, Genet was given the Gold Award by Jonathan’s widow Laurie Ochoa. The headline of the article read: “How chef Genet Agonafer helped make Ethiopian cuisine one of the central pieces in the mosaic of Los Angeles culinary culture.”
Meals by Genet has also been widely acknowledged by celebrities and chefs. Her vibrant and delicious food was featured on the TV show Chrissy & Dave Dine Out (2024) twice!
Tia Mowry, twin actress from the iconic 90’s sitcom Sister, Sister featured Genet on her Youtube channel. Watch it here.
Actress Mindy Kaling has also professed her love of Genet’s food multiple times. She even gave Genet a shoutout in her interview with Elle magazine last year!
Even though I’ve only met Genet in passing, I was disarmed by her kindness and warmth. No wonder why everyone loves her!
Genet’s story is the ultimate American dream. After emigrating from the capital of Ethiopia, Addis Ababa, to Los Angeles in the early 80s with her son, Genet worked as a waitress. She got her big break when she started catering for film production companies. In the year 2000, she bought the vacant space on this vibrant stretch of Fairfax Avenue. With this being said, Genet’s journey hasn’t been a smooth road. Before Jonathan Gold wrote about Meals by Genet for the first time in 2004, Genet’s son was pumping his own money into the restaurant to keep it alive.
Everything came to a halt with the pandemic, which helped put things into perspective for Genet. Whereas before she’d sometimes work 18-hour shifts, she semi-retired to spend more time with her grandchildren. After operating the restaurant through takeout orders a few days a week and private events, it was only in January of 2024 that Meals by Genet reopened its doors for in-person dining.
So, how did I wind up eating at Meals by Genet? Last year, I had an itch to try Ethiopian food for the first time. I had already heard about Meals by Genet, but with so many Ethiopian restaurants on Fairfax Avenue, which one should I try?
I asked my friend Myrrh, who is from Detroit and of Ethiopian descent. Coincidentally, Myrrh said that by far the best Ethiopian restaurant in LA was Meals by Genet! “Her siblings were friends with my mom. Genet has the best food. There are many places where you don’t know if the food is actually being cooked by an Ethiopian.”
Most restaurants open six days a week, but after the pandemic, Genet has limited her opening days from Friday to Sunday, 6pm until 9pm.
After doing my research, I gleaned that Meals by Genet was more expensive and refined than the average Ethiopian restaurant in the area. Apparently, this was the reason why you will seldom see any Ethiopians dining there.
I shared this information with my friend. She shrugged her shoulders. “I’ve been to many of the other restaurants. They’re ok. Genet’s food is the best. It’s the way she prepares it. It’s so special.”
We set up a day to go last year, but she wasn’t able to make it. Nonetheless, she encouraged me to go and try the vegan platter with the tibs because I wasn’t vegan. Whenever I do a restaurant review, I always prefer going solo. However, dining alone with the sheer size of the platters I’d seen online and my lack of knowledge about Ethiopian food looked very intimidating.
Myrrh said, “Oh yeah! There’s no problem. Sometimes I go there by myself too”. When Genet called me to confirm my reservation, I told her that it was my first time trying out Ethiopian food and that I was going by myself. “Oh yes. Plenty of people come here by themselves. I do things by myself all the time!” she said.
If you’re curious about Meal by Genet but your friends can’t make it or they’re just not interested in trying a new cuisine, go solo! The waiters also do an amazing job walking you through the menu and creating a comfortable atmosphere.
After going there a few times, I’ve established that Meals by Genet is only reserved for those who are looking to have a unique dining experience. Not everyone is willing to broaden their horizons and try new things out of their comfort zone. Whenever I’ve shown people pictures of the veggie platter, many of them feign interest, especially since the platter may not be as visually appealing as a burger.
The best time to show up at Meals by Genet is 10 minutes before the opening time, which is 6pm. Whenever I wait outside, I can see Genet sitting inside the restaurant while the servers lay out the crisp napkins before they open the doors of this Ethiopian haven. While you’re outside, you may read one of the many articles plastered on the storefront glass accolading Genet’s food.
Why do I like to show up early? Besides the fact that I always like to show up early when I go to restaurants, Genet is a one-man show. Although she has one prep cook who helps her, she’s the only chef. Additionally, Ethiopian food is very laborious and some of the dishes take days to prepare.
“I always say, ‘Man created the recipe for Ethiopian food,’ because no woman would cook all these days for one dish.” — Genet for the LA Times in 2022.
When I went to Meals by Genet on a rainy afternoon, a French couple walked in without a reservation. After they placed their order, thirty minutes passed and their order was yet to come out.
I later read that Genet and her staff are no strangers to complaints about the wait times. Here’s an excerpt from the LA Times article by Stephanie Breijo in 2021:
“She has flashbacks of servers running back to the kitchen to tell her that guests were getting angry about wait times for their food, or that customers were growing impatient to be let in or that her staff — all longtime employees who are like family to her — would be lost in their own discussions while an A-list actress sat just to their left.”
There are only two servers that tend the entire restaurant. If you go later at night, be patient. The wait will be worth it!
Being unfamiliar with Ethiopian food, it was unbeknownst to me that there were three kinds of tibs: chicken tibs, tofu tibs and beef tibs. The word tibs means sauteéd.
While I was chatting with the waiter about the veggie platter and my vegan friend, I accidentally ended up ordering the veggie platter with the tofu tibs as my protein choice instead of the beef tibs. The tofu tibs are the most popular vegan option – tofu cubes sauteéd in onions, green chili and Ethiopian butter.
Ethiopian veggie platters, also known as Beyaynetu, are the literal expression of “eat the rainbow”. An array of colorful vegetables, spiced stews, and hearty legumes – a feast for the eyes and the palate.
Ethiopian food is eaten with injera bread, which is essentially a pliable sourdough flatbread that looks like a crepe. A few moments before your platter arrives, the waiter will bring you a pillow of injera on a tray. You will be asked to pick it up with your hands and place it on the small plate that has already been set up on your table.
Genet’s injera bread has a delicate texture, very soft to the touch.
I’ve seen a few pictures of injera at other restaurants, where it’s a tad thicker. I prefer a thinner texture because you don’t get full as easily. Whenever I go to Genet’s I usually have two servings of injera.
That being my first time, I was more focused on the vegetables and stews than I was on the tofu tibs. Since I eat tofu on a regular basis, I didn’t gravitate towards it as much. They were perfectly cooked with a delicious crunch, but I didn’t really appreciate the seasoning, which is the star of the show. Everyone who has tried Genet’s tofu tibs raves about it in the reviews as the best tofu you’ll ever eat in your life. I’ll have to order it again at another time!
So, how should you go about mixing and matching all the vegetables and stews? There are no rules! These are my favorites:
The green Ethiopian salad is exceptionally fresh. The red lentils, which are cooked in butter, are possibly the best lentils I’ve ever had. The orange and yellow split peas are always a delight to eat. Both are made with turmeric as a base, but the yellow is also made with chickpeas and is creamier than the orange. The tomato purée reminded me of the “pan con tomate” I used to eat as a kid in Spain. The tomato was ripe with so much flavor, but the seasonings completely took it to the next level – olive oil, garlic, onions, lemon juice and peppers; it paired very well with the collard greens. I need to be more adventurous with the sunflower purée, which has a very distinct nutty flavor, and the green lentils with Ethiopian mustard. I think these would pair very well with the green salad because its freshness and tanginess help counteract the spice.
I usually try everything, but since there’s no way I can finish the whole platter by myself, I leave the collard greens, cabbage, carrots and potatoes for the next day because these tend to hold up the best.
When I went there for the second time, I decided to bite the bullet and try the veggie platter with meat. The waiter excitedly suggested trying the doro wat, which was by far the most popular option at Meals by Genet.
The doro wat is one of Ethiopia’s most famous dishes, a fragrant stew with chicken thighs and hard boiled eggs simmered in Berbere, a delightful spice blend of ginger, chili and aromatics. To prep the doro wat, Genet marinates the chicken for three days in Ethiopian butter, hence the creaminess and the marvellous richness of the stew. Here’s a picture (not from Meals by Genet):
Before I ordered it, I wanted to make sure that I could handle the spice level. The waiter quickly excused himself. Moments after, Genet emerged from the kitchen with a small spoonful of the doro wat. “I want to make sure you’re not too sensitive. Try it”, she said as the waiter looked at me expectantly. I was pleasantly surprised. As someone who can’t handle too much heat, the spice level of the doro wat was very mild!! “Wow, it’s not spicy at all!” I said. The server told me that some people are very sensitive and consider the doro wat a very spicy dish.
Once I took the first bite, there was no going back. I was instantly hooked! If you’re not vegan, the doro wat is a must-order. Not only am I pining for it as I’m writing this, but I might also make a reservation for next week. That’s how much I loved it!
Every bite was bursting with the deeply robust stew, piquant earthy spices, and tender chicken that effortlessly fell off the bone. Make sure to dive right in while it’s hot! On my second time trying the doro wat, Genet made sure to give me a generous portion. The waiter will place the plated doro wat on top of the injera. After he gives you a rundown of the veggie platter, he’ll proceed to stir up the doro wat and pour it on the center. Don’t forget to eat the porous injera underneath! In my opinion, it’s one of the best parts because it soaks up all the flavors and juices of the stew. Ugh, I want it now!
Jonathan Gold described the doro wat as “complex as a Oaxacan mole, rich as butter, whose flavor seems to cut right to the Ethiopian soul.”
Since the doro wat is already so rich and succulent, I don’t mix it with other stews or vegetables. I prefer to pair it with the red lentils. But to each their own!
Overall, Meals by Genet has become my favorite restaurant in Los Angeles. At Genet, you will not just have any meal, you will have a wonderful culinary adventure without leaving LA. The interactive experience of scooping the colorful array of vegetables and savory stews is like navigating a painting.
During my last visit, someone requested a fork. I followed suit to see how it would compare to eating it with the injera. I’ll never do it again! That hint of sourness, coupled with the smooth, silky texture – which delights the roof of my mouth – is an integral part of the experience.
Once you’re done, Genet will carefully pack all the leftovers. If you have any questions, ask the server how to reheat the injera the following day. I usually just pop it in the microwave, but it always comes out too hot. Nonetheless, all the ingredients make for excellent leftovers. I love adding a little bit of rice with the vegetables, but many people also like to add scrambled eggs.
The interior of the restaurant resembles a refined French bistro. The dimmed lights, soft background music and white table service set the mood for a very intimate dining experience. There’s no better feeling than indulging in a delicious veggie platter in such ambiance, especially when it’s dark and rainy outside. If you go by yourself, relax, appreciate your surroundings, and enjoy being pampered by the waiters.
However, Meals by Genet is not just about the rich, bold flavors, it’s about the warm hospitality from Genet and her staff that makes this place so unique. Since they’re closed Monday – Thursday and no one will answer the phone, send an email like I always do. Usually, Genet herself will reply to you confirming your reservation. During your meal, she will pop out of the kitchen momentarily to greet her guests. It’s like you’re eating at her house!
One couple told her about their daughter, who was living in Paris. Genet put her hands on her face. “Oh my God! Already? Wow. Time flies by!” she said. Another woman, who looked downcast was dining with her two little kids. Before Genet came out of the kitchen, she requested food to go for her mom who was in the hospital. Genet was made aware of this and not only did she give the woman her best wishes when she stopped by her table, but she also asked her questions.
My friend Myrrh was recently at another Ethiopian restaurant for lunch (Genet doesn’t open for lunch) and I asked if it was customary for the owners to greet guests like Genet does, but she said no. I looked at the picture of the vegan combo she got. “Oh my God, that looks so good. Do you think Genet’s food is still the best?” I asked. “Definitely”, she said.
While I was browsing through articles of Meals by Genet, I came across this article from 2012 by TheVegFoodie. The blogger said that for years she had avoided Meals by Genet, thinking that the elevated Ethiopian concept with white table service was catered to Americans.
She shared on her blog:
“There was a time when you could say: “Hey, let’s go get Ethiopian Food!” and 99% of the time I would say “YES!!!”
“Since eating at Meals by Genet my answer has unilaterally changed to: “Only if we go to Genet’s. Chef Genet Agonafer has ruined all other Ethiopian restaurants for me. Her food is heaven; all other Ethiopian food is earth.”
Genet is currently in her early 70s. A few times a month, she visits her son and two grandchildren in the Bay area. After so many ebbs and flows, what does the future hold for Meals by Genet? Will she close down the restaurant at some point? Will she sell it? Let’s enjoy it while it lasts!
She shared with the LA Times: “I enjoy my grandkids, and every day I have been thinking, ‘I don’t want to go back,’ Agonafer said. “I am doing 60% less business right now, maybe 70% less, but I say, ‘So what?’ The peace of mind I am getting does not even compare. The amount of money I lose. But I don’t need much to live on.”
Meals by Genet: 1053 S Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90019
Hours: Friday – Sunday 6PM – 9PM
What do you think?